What a dilemma: When asked back home about the highlight of our Galapagos cruise, we wrestled with which amazing animal encounter to delve into first. Should we start with how we snorkeled daily with playful sea lions, abundant sea turtles, bullet-fast penguins, or gentle, golden rays? Or should we open with our Charles Darwin Research Station stop on Santa Cruz Island to see the islands’ best-known creatures, the giant tortoises? (The name Galapagos, in fact, comes from the Spanish for “saddle” after the saddle-backed tortoises.) But then what about the dinosauresque iguanas and the graceful, red-throated frigate birds, not to mention the mating dance of the albatross? All cool contenders, too. So, after some thought, we chose what consistently struck us during our weeklong visit to several of these islands near the equator: just how close you can get to all these animals because they express no fear of people.
For instance, we literally swam eye-to-eye with those turtles. At one point, looking from the top deck of the fourdeck, 210-foot MV Eclipse, there were so many turtles in the water that we couldn’t count them all.
Then, there are the sea lions! Everyone, us included, fell in love with these sweet-faced creatures, especially the young ones we got up close to on the beautiful red-sand beach on Rabida Island. One U.K. photo buff sat next to a young pair, and the more curious one came over to sniff his sandals.
On the island of Fernandina, which the naturalist guides laughingly call “Iguana World,” we step carefully over hundreds of the dark reptiles that blend into the black volcanic rock.
Later, at a mangrove bay, a California cruiser’s walking stick proved attractive to a sea lion who tried to wrestle it from her with his mouth.
Examples of such animal interactions abound, and cruising is the best way to see more islands and more wildlife.
Located about 600 miles off Ecuador, the Galapagos archipelago has 13 large islands, six small ones and 40 islets. Our ship crossed the equator four times in our sevenisland visit.
Ships generally carry 16–100 passengers, and their itineraries are carefully planned in advance to avoid overcrowding and, especially, overstressing the critters. Guests are only allowed to tour islands and view the wildlife with an official naturalist guide and only walk on marked paths, according to National Park Service rules. Each guest also pays a $100 park fee. Our ship allotted one guide per 12 passengers, making for a nice group size.
The parklands — which encompass 90 percent of the islands — are being protected, but challenges remain — like keeping tourism, fishing, residential needs and natural resources all in balance.
In 2008, The New York Times reported that UNESCO had added the Galapagos to its “in-danger list,” citing the fragile ecosystem and negative effects of a sizable growth in tourism. Galapagos visitors are expected to reach 180,000 this year, nearly three times the 61,000 who came in 2000.
The Times article quoted Dr. Graham Watkins, executive director of the Charles Darwin Foundation, as saying, “Unless we start to make fundamental changes right now, in the next 10 to 15 years we will see the Galapagos suffer from both economic and environmental degradation.”
Pamela Lassers, who handles media relations for the luxury travel company Abercrombie & Kent (A&K), explained: “Adventure cruising is the best and most environmentally sensitive way to explore the islands of the Galapagos, and A&K began offering adventure cruises there in 1989. As experts on small-ship cruising in destinations worldwide, Abercrombie & Kent carefully matches the ship to the destination, choosing those that offer the best, most comfortable accommodations and most personal service, along with thoughtful itineraries planned by A&K’s award-winning expedition staff. Most importantly, Eclipse (A&K’s Galapagos ship of choice) has earned the Smart Voyager green seal of approval in recognition of environmentally sensitive operating practices.”
Margarita Sanchez oversees A&K’s Ecuador operations. She loves visitors’ reactions to the Galapagos — A&K’s second- most requested destination after African safaris.
The islands have likewise inspired her personally. “It’s a very unique place in the world. It not only helps you connect with the world and nature but helps you connect with yourself. After (visiting) Galapagos, I learned to value silence a lot more. In Fernandina, for instance, you have to be careful not to step on the iguanas. That experience you don’t find anywhere else in the world. You really learn to respect the animals, respect the rules. I think to us as tour operators, we would like to have more people coming. But as Ecuadorians, we want to protect it, so we are glad there is the National Park and all the rules.”
Charles Darwin’s 1835 Galapagos visit and subsequent book, The Origin of the Species, helped put the area on the map. This year, incidentally, marks the book’s 150th anniversary. Due to strong conservation and strict regulations, most of the endemic wildlife and fauna Darwin outlined in his studies remain visible today.
In one of her onboard lectures, naturalist Ivonne Torres, who happens to be married to a local fisherman, said, “I have a lot of faith in the Galapagos and how we’re managing it. We’ve only lost 5 percent of our endemic flora and fauna. Tourists visit less than 1 percent of the marine reserve, so there’s a small impact.”
Days aboard the Eclipse include early-morning outings (before the sun heats up and the animals retreat) for hikes, bird-watching, kayaking or panga tours (inflatable boats for going ashore); then lunch back aboard and free time: then an afternoon excursion, which is often a snorkel opportunity. The ship provides free wet suits, snorkel masks and fins.
Our A&K “Wonders of the Galapagos” trip was perfectly orchestrated; the Eclipse fantastic. This mid-size, luxury ship gave adventure cruising an elegant edge from delicious cuisine and three-times-daily cabin service to white tablecloth-and-china dinner service and postexcursion snacks.
The passengers were a jolly lot, too — 48 in all — about half Americans and half Brits, so language was never a barrier. The sole German couple managed to communicate with their spotty English and, like all of us, big smiles brought on by all that the Galapagos offers.
Our cruise highlights included:- The wildlife, of course, from land and marine iguanas to the lovable sea lions and ever-present sea turtles and birds galore. The Blue-footed booby may be the islands’ most famous winged resident. The name comes from “bobo,” Spanish for clown, and his mating dance does resemble a circus act as he lifts first one big, turquoise-colored foot high in the air, and then the other. Birders delighted in spotting the Galapagos’ mockingbirds, hawks, doves, pelicans, herons, the Nazca booby, flightless cormorant and swallow-tailed gull; though the “big get,” the vermilion flycatcher, remained elusive, as did the usually present pink flamingos. While sitting under the shade of the deck canopy enjoying lunch, we watched frigates fly overhead, their shadows casting pterodactyl-like shadows. They also found our ship’s mast a great perch. We loved the penguins, believed to have first arrived from Patagonia on the cold Humboldt Current then subsequently become stranded during a warming period. The bright red Sally Lightfoot crab made for stunning photos against the black volcanic rocks.
- The naturalists, who are the experts that get you up close and tell you what you’re seeing on their islands, were key, too (they freelance from ship to ship). Ours were outstanding: Javier Cando, Charly Malo, Ivonne Torres and Cati Iturralde.
- On-deck breakfast and lunch buffets were a hit, including the Ecuadorian luncheon of native dishes like fresh ceviche with popcorn, baked pork leg, baked turkey, fried corn, Cassava/ yucca muchin (similar to hushpuppies), potato patties with peanut sauce, plus fish in coconut sauce, rice with lentils and cheese, and mote pillo (white corn with scrambled eggs).
- Bartenders and waiters Angel and Gonzolo topped the list for superb service, but all staff received high ratings, from the cruise director and cabin stewards to the chefs and panga operators.
- An unexpected deck party proved lively when a five-some of cooks and waiters and even the ship’s photographer performed. This volunteer group calls itself La Yapa, Spanish for “something extra.” Passengers raved over their gift of music from the heart, which commanded a second, farewell performance.
- An on-deck night lecture on the explosion of stars had naturalists pointing out the Southern Cross and southern hemisphere constellations. Other ship amenities include a hot tub, lending library of books and DVDs, lounge, two bars, a pair of elliptical machines, complimentary wine at lunch and dinner, and even free services from the ship’s doctor, who often joined in on hikes.
- Our island visits that created lasting memories were Santa Cruz, home to the Charles Darwin Research Center and Lonesome George, an ancient tortoise who is the last of his species; lava-crusted Bartolome, with its climb up 372 steps for the best viewing point and photo op of the Galapagos landmark Pinnacle Rock; the stunning, red-sand beach on Rabida; finding land iguana on Isabela Island and spotting Blue-footed boobies on a cliff above a cave reached by panga; black, volcanic rock Fernandina, with all those iguanas, and, on its far side, an active volcano providing a white smoke plume in the distance and a far-off red glow at night; and finally Espanola’s dreamy white-sand beach filled with friendly (mostly) sea lions in aquamarine surf, plus a trek here to see booby colonies, a blowhole and that unforgettable mating dance of the waved albatross. As we waved our goodbyes to the Eclipse and the islands, we couldn’t wait to tell everyone back home all about it.
Sail with Darwin’s Great-Great-Grandson: Abercrombie & Kent has organized a special Ecuador and Galapagos Islands trip celebrating Charles Darwin’s 200th birthday and the 150th anniversary of the publication of The Origin of Species. Featuring conservationist Randal Keynes, the naturalist’s great-great-grandson, the special, seven-night Eclipse cruise is October 22 and will explore islands that Darwin himself visited. For details visit www.abercrombiekent.com or call 800.554.7016.
Flights/Hotels: All of the three daily flights to the Galapagos Islands originate from mainland Ecuador’s capital of Quito and its largest city Guayaquil. Quito flights pass through Guayaquil. Flights arrive at one of the islands’ two airports — Baltra or San Cristobal. Two airlines serve the islands: Aerogal and Tame. There is a direct Delta flight (www.delta.com) from Atlanta to Quito, a city of nearly 2 million and a UNESCO cultural heritage site (www.quito.com).
For Quito accommodations, check out the newly opened and beautifully appointed Plaza Grande (www.plazagrandequito. com) overlooking the city square, Plaza de la Independencia, in popular Old Town. The dining room is positioned by lovely balconies for people watching, and dinner here includes operatic serenades.
The Plaza Grande’s sister property, the well-equipped, five-star Swissotel, www.Swissotel.com/quito, has five restaurants, an Amrita Spa and executive level service (included for A&K guests) with gorgeous views of a distant volcano and the city.
Pre-Cruise Tours: A&K pre-cruise excursion options can include a tour of Old Town, a day trip to the popular handicraft region of Otavalo, and the chance to set foot on the equator — and watch a demonstration on how draining water reverses direction when moved from just north of the line to south of the line — really. A monument and museum mark the spot as “la mitad del mundo,” the middle of the world.
Add-On Must: Peru’s Machu Picchu — “This combination of Galapagos and Machu Picchu is a success,” promised A&K’s Margarita Sanchez. She was right. See our story on mystical Machu Picchu in this issue.
When To Go: There are different wildlife highlights different months of the year in the Galapagos. Naturalist Charly Malo suggests “Any month but March — March is the hottest. In January, there’s the mating of the land iguanas; September through November, baby sea lions are born; in December, you see albatross with babies.... For me, I like May and June. June, July and August is high season. March and September are low season.” More families come with children, of course, when school’s out.
